Not all designers can design a ready-made clothes, you know. It was not easy to design ready-made clothing that can be worn a lot of people, “said Anne Avantie to Female Compass press conference after the launch Batiken, Lawasan Ready to Wear, some time ago at the Harris Hotel Kelapa Gading.
Anne Avantie is a designer whose names figure soared since 20 years ago. His work was in designing a wedding dress kebaya and already very well known and much imitated. In mid 2010, Anne ventured to try to get out of the glamor kebaya which makes it a well-known designers like now.
“This is a fashion show deg-degan most I’ve ever done,” said Anne opened the press conference accompanied by Taruna K., chairman of the Employers’ Association and the Indonesian Fashion Designer (APPMI). Anne said, to design dresses Batiken, Lawasan Ready to Wear this, he must get used to not touching or using brocade, lace, or sequins that have been familiar with their activities. In this life time collection ready, she should be willing to stick with the fabrics just for some people considered trash.
Lawasan, batik, which is commonly used for handicrafts, which are usually cut into small pieces, and when no longer used, collected, and then sold per kilo. In the story, Anne says she was moved to see such a traditional fabric is treated like dirt as if nothing mattered. Dawned in his mind to collect the pieces of fabric are then designed into a proper fashion wear.
“A lot of people if they see batik lawasan impressive, bright baseball, foul, or filthy. But I want to batik lawasan have prestige, charisma, and empowered. Not only the fabric, but also the collectors who collect these fabrics,” Anne’s story.
To dress in Batiken, Anne says that he tried he could order the offered price is quite affordable. Female Compass visited the booth where she models the collection at the Fashion Village in the event of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival in 2010, according to the guard, the offered price ranging from Rp 150,000 – Rp 800,000.
Removing this collection is not in vain, Midshipman mengatakna, that the ideas and thoughts to issue a collection of ready to wear this takes three years of Anne. Recognized by Anne, his efforts out ready to wear collection was not easy. He also made preparations to carry out research and many questions to the designers who sometimes younger than him but had already issued a ready to wear.
“I realized that my design was followed by many more people. I do not keep a sense of irritation or resentment. I am aware, with this launch, there will be praise and criticism from here and there. But most important, will there be any hope, both for batik lawasan, also to perajinnya, “Anne cap.
Young designers from leading fashion schools in Jakarta and Bandung held a fashion show in the arena of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival (JFFF) 2010.
The annual event is entering his seventh this year, opening up space for the creation of talented fashion designers from the State University of Jakarta (UNJ), Institut Teknologi Bandung (ITB), and Esmod Jakarta.
Located in the Grand Ballroom of the Harris Hotel, Kelapa Gading, Jakarta, Monday (17/05/2010) then, with a total of more than 70 designers, young designers show off hundreds of fashion collections.
JFFF great theme this time was thick with the value tradition of Indonesia, Heritageous. His mission to transform Indonesia into a sense of the world. No doubt, fashion design students and alumni, from the three institutions this fashion is rich with local color.
Fashion show themed “Modecothic or Modern Ethnic Clothes” by students eight semesters of Education Studies Program dressmaking UNJ, gets the first turn.
By involving 58 designers, two of whom were male, Modecothic works inspired by traditional Indonesian fabric. The idea embodied in the model ready to wear clothing with a touch of modern style ulos cloths, filters, songket, striated, batik, and jumputan materials.
ITB students creativity no less unique. Smara Kriya is the theme raised in the fashion show. Simple design was worn barefoot models. Clothing knit overalls with supervisor’s attention. Not to mention soft and bright colors like purple, pink, white, and gold dominated the fashion collection of about 10 young designers.
Esmod alumni from different generations, starting in 1999 until 2009, was also a chance to showcase his work. Esmod shows its commitment to support the alumni to continue doing business in the fashion industry.
Esmod Reunion Show, themed “Archipelago” bring back 10 talented designers from JFFF Esmod in 2010. Again, two of whom are male. The young designer is still dominated by real women.
Design fashion designer ready to wear from Esmod more diverse target segments. If the student UNJ and ITB targeting more among women, alumni-who have the variant Esmod richer fashion-apparel market targeting teenage boys.
Despite diverse backgrounds, creativity of young fashion designers have in common. Female compass watch young designers to show the existence of femininity. Not only the design of the clothing market targeting women, but also the spirit of femininity is so prominent in each of their design.
Feminine color selection many students displayed UNJ and ITB. The spirit of rebellion without leaving the side of womanhood, with the concept of goth, appears in the design of the designer Syindicate Esmod, Evelyn Natalia Fransisca and Devi. The impression is also featured Prachrist rebel Daren from the UNJ and a number of other designers.
In fact, the design was quite unique teenage boy who, born from and Dian Intan Ayundavira Shidiinki Suryan with labels. Two young designers Esmod makes femininity as an inspiration, in creating memorable playful clothing for young men.
Confidence and kept refreshing fashion design school fashion was born than in Indonesia, as shown UNJ, ITB, and Esmod in JFFF Monday
After the clothing and footwear, bags are the next option to look attractive. As well as clothing, bags reflect the personality of the wearer.
Julie Chanipot, from Balenciaga Asia-Pacific region, while showing a black bag in Papilion Duo, Jakarta, Tuesday (20 / 4) then, say, even though the bag was made for men, could women can also wear them. Moreover, the classical model is a box-shaped model that was always there from time to time.
From the collection for spring / summer 2010 for a bag lady, Balenciaga has a pledge “City”, “Work”, and “Papier”, a three-shaped handbag.
With a size that is not too large and bright colors, like red-purple, the City is a handbag that can be used for a relaxing atmosphere. Meanwhile, as the name implies, the Work is made to wear women at work. As for the large size, Papier can be used for those who like to carry lots of stuff.
“Women who have small children, for example, could include consumer goods as well as his son his own goods in one bag,” said Chanipot.
Balenciaga products of various kinds of bags, ranging from travel bags, handbags, shoulder bags, to wallets, to have the same characteristics, one of which is two knobs below the zipper and the other two in the corners of the bottom of the bag. Chanipot say, Balenciaga are sold everywhere, in Europe, America and Asia, has the same model.
“Our strengths to compete with others is an homage to couture designs. This is apparent from the detail contained in any design, “said Chanipot.
Another thing that the main attraction is the material that Balenciaga lambskin. “In the processing of other chemicals are not mixed, so it feels more refined,” he said.
Initially, Balenciaga was founded in Spain in 1914, but it must be closed when there was civil war in Spain (1936-1939). Balenciaga boutique was eventually moved and opened in Paris, France (1937). Currently the French multinational company owned by Balenciaga, PPR.
Kate Moss Bags
For those fans who know the product bag French origin, namely, Longchamp, this year could have a collection of “Kate Moss for Longchamp”. The model has eight seasons of France’s iconic home products are now believed to have his own label.
“I made this design bags according to my personality, not someone else. I also want a bag that I can create a functional and comfortable to carry, “Moss said, as quoted by The New York Times (2 / 2).
Different sources of inspiration, can travel bags from Gucci Zebra motif is seen Moss when the streets of Los Angeles. Moss used this motif for a collection called Gloucester. Moss’s buff animal motifs.
Another inspiration came from her partner, Jamie Hince, Moss when he was asked to imagine glamor, Elizabeth Taylor when her bag was delivered by a porter. Taylor’s imagination about this, plus knowledge about the glamor world Moss catwalk and red carpet, producing Sohoclutch design.
With a long adjustable strap / short, Sohoclutch can be used as a handbag or shoulder bag.
Broadly speaking, as contained in the site Longchamp, Moss design divides into three themes, namely Rock ‘n’ Casual form of the bags that you can wear everyday, Rock ‘n’ Travels consisting of a bag for travel, and Rock ‘ n ‘Glam whose designs suitable for use at special events.
Longchamp creative director Sophie Delafontaine-grandson of the founder of Longchamp, Jean-Casserain explain, in cooperation with Moss has a chance to develop. One of them visible from the development of markets in London, home to Moss. Delafontaine ensure, in cooperation with Moss not only lasted one season.
Tennis became the inspiration for Jean Paul Gaultier to design the Hermes bag collection for spring / summer 2010. In Paris Fashion Week, which took place in October 2009, the models wore clothing with tennis theme, complete with bags, some of which are made from snake and crocodile skin, with white, brown, and black.
Victoria Beckham is one of the fanatical lover of Hermes handbags. Wife of David Beckham has a collection of Hermes Birkin bag as many as 100 units, whose value reached more than 2 million U.S. dollars!
When there are clothes that give a lot of inspiration for the “fashion”, social status or identity, it is the kebaya. For us, kebaya closely with everyday. Clothing was worn grandmother and parents, ranging from Mbok herbalist to the mother country.
On an afternoon at the end of April, guests meet the performance kebaya Amy Atmanto in a shopping center in the region’s elite Thamrin, Jakarta. Officials, former officials, and socialite blend into one. Just call Linda Agum Gumelar, Siti Fadilah Supari, Mien Uno, Rima Melati, scheduled to Tati, until Marini Zumarnis and Diah Permata Sari. All wore kebaya kebaya praised each other and they used one another.
Interestingly, not only the nuances of color that filled the room, but also no visible kebaya “uniform”. Red kebaya worn Fadilah Supari, for example, away from formal impression. Cloth he wore was relaxed, like a coil sheath. In her kebaya, Fadilah figure that as long as a health minister was once known to impress even more relaxed straightforward.
Kebaya became a hot issue throughout April. Could be because April is closely associated with Kartini Day, while warning of Kartini is often associated with the kebaya. That month is also usually an opportunity for senior designers and new to re-interpret the kebaya in accordance with the current character of Indonesian women.
Looking back, the journey was very long kebaya. Kebaya was first used in Indonesia around the 16th century. According to the homeowner fabric Bin House, Josephine Komara, or known by Obin, Indonesian people are not familiar with the culture used to wear clothes, but wearing kemben. “My start was known as the Portuguese and Dutch arrived. This shirt is then used to continue to use so that emerges form kemben kebaya, kebaya bef, “said Obin.
Due to cultural buttons unknown in Indonesia, women in the past wearing a pin to unite the two sides of the shirt. “And, Kartini was born a kebaya. Plus beads, safety pins also function be decorative, “said Obin, who had known since childhood kebaya. He claimed to really enjoy wearing kebaya. “Women certainly have a tendency to wear something that makes it more beautiful and comfortable. For that, I choose the kebaya, “he said.
Political symbol
In the journey, kebaya has played a variety of functions, whether political, social, or cultural. Henk Schulte Nordholt, in his book, Outward Appearances, for example, write down how kebaya has become a political symbol of Indonesian women.
During the Japanese occupation period (1942-1945), the Indonesian woman who was then a prisoner of war rather than choose to wear kebaya cloth wearing Western-style resistance. This attitude indicates a political position to distinguish themselves with women prisoners of war from the Netherlands.
Not surprisingly, the post-independence President Sukarno and then transforming the kebaya as the national dress. However, the position of “honor” that disappeared in the New Order era. Kebaya became mandatory uniform Dharma Wanita and women in the civil service environment required to become members of Dharma Wanita. Function “control” imposed by kebaya makes some political literacy of women in those days to be antipathy and linking kebaya as a symbol of “oppression.”
“Once kebaya has become a symbol of restraint against women. It can be seen in the New Order era, especially among mothers of Dharma Wanita. They willingly tortured by wearing tight kebaya and fabrics that look pretty and graceful. When it appeared as uniform or kebaya uniform, “said sociologist Julia Suryakusuma.
However, the kebaya is now more a part of fashion and lifestyle. Kebaya is no longer interpreted rigidly. “We can track the trend that the diutak fiddle with the designers was not far from the kebaya and batik. Apparently, the political awareness that the kebaya is already firmly entrenched national dress, “said Julia.
Collaboration among the women, fashion entrepreneurs, fashion designers, and lovers of culture to inspire younger generations that the kebaya is one of the nation’s identity to be kept from sight. In recent years, the trend continued to strengthen in the daily kebaya youth. Course in style and customized pieces.
“Right now there is a short-sleeved kebaya. They, in fact, combine with a pair of jeans. I also make kebaya by hand three quarters to make it more elegant, baseball complicated, and can be used as daily wear, “said Obin.
So-so we hope will also follow in the footsteps kebaya batik which nowadays has become part of everyday fashion. Do not let other countries hurried mengetap kebaya as their national dress and then we hit the ceiling (and then-yack loudly talking about the kebaya-without ever wear them).
New Delhi, March 24, 2010: The colour was a hot favourite among designers and models on Day 1 of fashion week in Delhi. Purple just might be the unofficial official colour of Wills Indian Fashion Week (WIFW) Fall Winter 2010/11. Why? Because, one after the oth
er, fashion biggies paraded into the WIFW venue in, you guessed it, purple! 
Hannah Marshall is an up-and-coming innovative designer from Colchester in the UK. Born in 1982, she was selected to show her designs on Channel 4 in 2002, whilst still a student. She was subsequently awarded a place at the 'Graduate Pioneer Programme' run by NESTA (the National Endowment for Science, Technology & the Arts), an organisation that invests in UK creativity and innovation. Her autumn/winter 2005 collection, 'Altered Beauty' explores both visual and tactile elements of communication through the incorporation of Braille into the fabric of her tailored garments.
